Erté: The Master of Art Deco Elegance

In the world of art and design, few names resonate with the opulence and sophistication of the early 20th century quite like Erté. Born Romain de Tirtoff on November 23, 1892, in Saint Petersburg, Russia, Erté adopted his professional pseudonym from the French pronunciation of his initials, “R.T.” Over his prolific career, Erté became a defining figure of the Art Deco movement, leaving an indelible mark on fashion, theater, and illustration.

Influences That Shaped Erté’s Vision

Erté’s work was a melting pot of various artistic influences, each contributing to his unique and instantly recognizable style.

1. Art Nouveau: The flowing, organic lines of Art Nouveau provided a foundation for Erté’s early designs, emphasizing natural forms and intricate detailing.

2. Ballets Russes: The exotic and vibrant costumes of the Ballets Russes, orchestrated by Sergei Diaghilev, inspired Erté’s theatrical and elaborate designs, infusing them with a sense of drama and fantasy.

3. Ancient Cultures: Erté often looked to ancient Egyptian, Greek, and Indian art, drawing upon their rich visual languages and integrating their motifs into his own work.

4. Orientalism: The early 20th century’s fascination with Eastern art and culture influenced Erté’s use of intricate patterns, luxurious fabrics, and exotic themes.

5. French Rococo and Baroque: These styles’ ornate and decorative elements found echoes in Erté’s lavish and detailed designs, contributing to their grandiosity and elegance.

Erté’s Versatile Mediums

Erté’s artistic versatility allowed him to excel across a range of mediums:

1. Fashion Design: His clothing and accessory designs were celebrated for their elegance and meticulous detail, epitomizing the glamour of the Art Deco era.

2. Costume and Set Design: For theater, opera, and film, Erté crafted extravagant costumes and sets, showcasing his flair for the dramatic and the fantastical.

3. Illustration: Erté’s illustrations, particularly his numerous covers for “Harper’s Bazaar,” became iconic, characterized by elongated figures and vibrant compositions.

4. Sculpture: In his later years, Erté translated his two-dimensional designs into three-dimensional sculptures, further demonstrating his artistic range.

5. Graphics and Lithography: Erté produced numerous prints and lithographs, many of which remain highly collectible today.

Three Iconic Works by Erté

Among Erté’s extensive portfolio, three pieces that stood out to me were:

1. “Loge de Theatre” (1984), while this was the first piece I looked at, I found that black coat interesting with its hanging gold details. This coat was definitely a show piece. We re-imagined that black fur coat in Portiere Rose Pale.

2. “Queen of the Night” (1985): I found this artwork is be magical with its delicate details and soft colours. Her dress with a deep v neck looked as though it was adorned with glitter and pearls.

3. “Flamenco” (1987):  With its bold textured lines over what looked like a slightly transparent skirt, this garment was a standout. We play with the texture on the skirt in out artwork Femme Flamande.