The 1910s were a decade of dynamic change in the world of fashion, poised between the lavish elegance of the Edwardian era and the radical reinvention brought on by World War I and the coming Roaring Twenties. As society underwent profound transformations, so too did clothing—reflecting shifts in gender roles, technological innovation, and political upheaval.
Cultural and Social Influences
The first half of the 1910s retained much of the grace and formality of the Edwardian period, with high society still looking to Parisian couture for guidance. However, the outbreak of World War I in 1914 dramatically altered fashion’s course. Wartime practicality, women’s increasing presence in the workforce, and the psychological shift toward modernism all played crucial roles in reshaping silhouettes and materials.
Art movements like Art Nouveau at the beginning of the decade and Cubism later on influenced patterns, shapes, and design aesthetics. The suffragette movement also contributed to the loosening of constrictive garments as women demanded greater mobility, both politically and sartorially.
Key Garments and Styles of the 1910s
1. The Hobble Skirt (c. 1910–1914):
Designed with an extremely narrow hem, this skirt restricted a woman’s stride to mere inches. Though impractical, it reflected the era’s fascination with exotic and dramatic silhouettes. Often paired with tunics or long jackets, it highlighted the elegance of the upper figure.
2. The Empire Waist and Columnar Silhouettes:
Inspired by Classical Greece and the work of couturier Paul Poiret, these designs de-emphasized the waist and corsetry. Dresses flowed from just under the bust, creating a more natural and graceful line compared to the hourglass figure of previous decades.
3. The Tea Gown:
A popular indoor garment, the tea gown was one of the first examples of informal dressing for women. Loosely structured and often made of silk or chiffon, it represented a move toward freedom and comfort in women’s attire.
4. Tailored Suits and Uniforms (Post-1914):
With the war, women began to wear more tailored, utilitarian clothing. Skirts became shorter (mid-calf rather than floor-length), and suits became an accepted part of daywear. Garments were designed for mobility and made from sturdier fabrics like wool and cotton.
5. Lingerie Dresses:
Often white and made of lightweight batiste, lawn, or muslin, these dresses featured lace, tucks, and embroidery. Worn in summer and for day events, they symbolized a delicate femininity that persisted before war brought harsher realities.
Fabrics and Accessories
- Fabrics: Silk, cotton voile, lightweight wool, and lace dominated. During the war, scarcity led to simpler, more conservative fabric use.
- Hats: Wide-brimmed hats adorned with feathers, ribbons, or flowers were essential early in the decade. The war ushered in smaller, more practical styles.
- Footwear: Button-up boots and heeled lace-up shoes were common, transitioning into more utilitarian footwear by mid-decade.
- Corsets: The silhouette shifted with the advent of the “health corset,” which lowered the bust and promoted a straighter line.
Key Designers and Style Figures
1. Paul Poiret:
Often credited with freeing women from the corset, Poiret embraced Orientalism and designed garments with loose, flowing lines inspired by the East. His work foreshadowed the looser silhouettes of the 1920s.
2. Mariano Fortuny:
An artist and designer, Fortuny created the Delphos gown, a pleated silk dress influenced by ancient Greece. It was revolutionary in both aesthetic and technique, emphasizing the natural form and freedom of movement.
3. Lucile (Lady Duff Gordon):
One of the first female couturiers, Lucile was known for her romantic, pastel-hued gowns and for pioneering the concept of the fashion show. Her clientele included royalty and early film stars.
4. Coco Chanel (emerging figure):
While Chanel’s full impact would be felt in the 1920s, her wartime hats and early designs—marked by simplicity and functional elegance—signaled a shift away from decorative excess.
Conclusion
The 1910s were a transitional period in fashion history—where old-world elegance met the early tremors of modern life. War, women’s changing roles, and evolving aesthetics dramatically redefined clothing’s purpose and symbolism. It was a decade that stripped fashion of much of its ornamentation and helped lay the groundwork for the liberated styles of the 1920s.
